Sunday, April 24, 2016

Taupe shell top

I found myself very short of summer tops for work this year, and the paisley rayon's I purchased recently had been earmarked for this hole in my wardrobe.

The first one is using my TNT top pattern, Vogue 8752 (OOP) which I am still fine tuning as my body changes as the years go by.

 The last lot of changes happened after a workshop at our ASG group back in July last year about armscye/sleeves by Anita McAdam who owns Studio Faro.

Anita suggested we bring/wear a top/blouse that we wanted help with, so I chose to use my TNT top and wore this yellow top.

Over the  years I have made a number of adjustments and it was the cream silk version that I made the round shoulder adjustment to my sleeve pattern and I was pretty pleased with that but I still get some stress lines around the armscye.

Anita suggested I also needed a forward shoulder adjustment and I have gone about it as follows:

1.  On the sleeve pattern I folded out 1.2cm on the back armscye and added 1cm wedge to the front armscye.

2.  I then did the corresponding adjustments to the front and back pattern pieces.


I didn't expect this fabric to fray like it did after I put the invisible zip in, so

I did a Hong Kong finish on the seam allowances

and then did French Seams for the shoulders and right side seam.

I told a sewing friend that I used bias strips of organza to insert my sleeves, so thought I would try and explain it here.

*  After doing French Seam on the sleeves, I

*  took a 4cm wide bias strip of organza and placed this on the wrong side of my sleeve cap, starting at the dot and lowered the needle, with my machine on baste stitch, I put pressure on the bias strip as I stitched it around to the other dot,

and when you finish your sleeve already has a very nice shape to the sleeve cap.

*  and you can also use the basting stitches to put in more ease or reduce as necessary.

*  once the sleeve is in place, I cut out the silk organza bias strip.

Then to finish off the sleeve I added a Hong Kong finish to this seam.

and here is the completed top.

I'm not sure what is happening to the sleeve, even though I took out a wedge from the back armscye, it looks like there is still too much fabric.

Oh and I forgot to shorten the back darts, that would have given me just that bit more room at the back.  The pattern is now noted for next time.

Now off to work.

2016 Stash Out: 6.1 m
2016 Stash In: 15 m


Anonymous said...

What a lovely top and such a beautiful colour. You've styled it brilliantly and look gorgeous.

Therese said...

Always interesting to see how other people are fixing fitting issues. You are so prolific and make lovely items, this little blouse is no exception!

Sarah Liz said...

Such a pretty little top - that forward shoulder alteration will be noted down _ I'm not quite there yet, but with computers and sewing, I am working towards a forward shoulder.

I love your finishing - sometimes sewing takes on it's own life. With such a pretty fabric a nice finish is always an ideal compliment.

The organza tip is also very useful. It makes sense.

Have a lovely week Sharon.

Sue said...

A great TNT that just gets more fit tweaking all the time. Loos fab!

Sew, Jean Margaret said...

As beautiful on the inside as the outside. Thanks for sharing your fitting adjustments too. Lovely work.

Irene said...

What a lovely top! I really admire your patience in continuing to work out all your fitting issues with this pattern. It just keeps getting better and better.

Carolyn said...

Lovely! I'm very impressed by the attention to detail you are giving to obtain that perfect fit.

Cherie said...

Thanks for the details on this process! Re the sleeves - what if you hem them with a more horizontal fold? Might take care of the extra fabric issue. I enjoy your blog a lot, and I loved your post on jewelry making. I've been meaning to get into beading, and your work is inspirational!