Tuesday, November 20, 2012

Trench progress

I'm happy to report that since my last post I have managed to achieve all that was on my list:
  • Trace the pattern from the magazine.
  • Make a toile to ensure all is right.
  • Decide if I want it to be double breasted as my RTW isn't?
  • Decide on what zips I want to use and place my order with Zipperstop.
  • Gather my bedtime reading from a number of Threads magazines to figure what else I need to do.
During my bedtime reading I read Threads Issue # 19, page 30 where David Page Coffin talks about "Stalking the Perfect Raincoat" and this made me realise that I wanted a hidden-button fly front as my closure as this is what is on my RTW Trench and I really like the clean lines.

So the I traced off the pattern and then found quite a few places that showed me how to do a concealed button front for a shirt, so using my RTW Trench as a guide I made the folds 5cm each.  At the same time I also drafted the back storm panel.

Then it was time to cut out the Trench in calico to make sure it fitted and also to see if could understand the lovely Burda instructions.

A couple of notes I did make during construction were:
  • Is there a better way to do the pockets?  You sew the seam first and then fiddle with the pocket bags.
  • Is there a better way to do the collar?
  • Looks like the sleeve head has too much fullness in it for this type of fabric.
and this is how it looks so far.

I've decided that I don't like the gap between the centre front and the collar and I'm also not so sure about the collar extension or how it sits when the Trench is open?

Last weekend my sewing buddies and I got to spend some more quality time with Angie Zimmerman getting our patterns fitted and this is what we have decided to do with the Trench:
  • I can put the pockets in first (before I sew the seam), but I need to ensure that they line up perfectly when I sew the side seams.
  • Well the way Burda does the collar is the tailored way, you live and learn.  Angie did give me some more information for a better finish than the brief Burda instructions do.
  • Angie did think that I got the sleeves in very well in the calico version and suggested I leave them as they are but looking at the large tuck on the sleeve in the first picture above I'm not so sure.
The toile is missing the little bits that are part of a Trench but they will be included.

I'm still reading magazines/books and watching DVD's however it now looks like I'm ready to cut out my fabric, but first I need to make the lining pattern as I didn't want to do this until I had checked the fit.

Friday, November 16, 2012

SWAP 2013

I have been haunting Stitcher's Guild since September waiting for the 2013 SWAP Rules to be posted and here they are:

"Hurricane Sandy, site outtages and a fairly wide-spread sentiment among the members has convinced me to keep this year's rules simple and uncluttered.

We'll be following JenSA's suggestion to make two 4 or 5 piece collections, with a single other garment that can be worn with both capsules. 

Each collection is either 3 tops and two bottoms, or 2 tops, 1 bottom, and 1 dress, which all form a cohesive group.  The 11th garment should be a jacket or other piece that coordinates with both collections, both in style and color.

These collections can be for different occasions, or in different colorways, or simply reflect two very different styles or images. 

There will be no requirement this year to use a particular fabric or pattern choice, no fussy print matching or need to master any new skill. 

Sewing will begin December 26th, and all garments must be finished by April 30th, 2013.  Muslins, pattern fitting and cutting may be started whenever you are ready.

One garment may be sewn before the official sewing start date, and one may be purchased or previously sewn.

So this means that your SWAP collection can have a total of 9, 10 or 11 pieces.  As always there is a lot of discussion going on at Stitcher's Guild and some of the ladies even have a pretty good idea of how they are going to proceed.

JenSA's suggestion was made around the middle of October and quite a few of us really liked the idea, so I had started to play with my plan and had a pretty good idea what I was going to do, as long as I could work with the rules, and the answer is yes.

My SWAP plans consist of:
  • an evening collection
  • an everyday collection 
  • with the all important cross over piece being the rain coat Trench.
I'm pretty certain all this will come from my stash and I'm working out the patterns, but plan on using some of the TNT patterns I achieved last year.

So who is going to join me?

Saturday, November 3, 2012

A lot more animal print

Here is the cardigan finished and like the t-shirt before it has all the alterations of the Fractured Knit cardigan except the FBA.

This is the first time that I have done buttonholes on a knit fabric which had me very nervous, however Suzanne told us to use tearaway underneath the band, and using the knit buttonhole on my Janome I was very pleased with the result.

Now Sew Hopeful did make a comment about my use of waxed thread, Burda have the perfect explanation for this Unsung Notion.