Sunday, November 30, 2014

SWAP 2015

On 1 November the 2015 SWAP rules where posted on Artisan Square

It has taken me a while to figure out if I was going to participate as the twist this year is not anything that I have ever contemplated or had a desire to do!

Here are the rules for SWAP 2015:

So.... Let's return to the tradition 11-garment format, with all the tops working with all the bottoms, and wildcard garments that work with every other item.  

This year, we need to make:

5 tops
3 bottoms
3 "wildcard" items

For our "sewing" focus -and this year's twist- let's make at least one garment that is reversible, transformable, or upcycled from another garment. For instance: a dress that can be worn as a shirt, a pair of pants that can roll up to be worn as shorts, or a jacket that can also be a dress. 

 "Upcycling" includes remaking an older garment into something new, taking a vintage pattern and modernizing it into a more current style, or recycling the fabrics or notions from another item to incorporate it into something new.  The original item to be reworked does not need to be a garment; you can remake a dozen scarves into a skirt or transform an old handbag into a collar and cuffs -use your imagination.

The "wild card" options can be just about anything you like, but they must be "garments" not accessories (hats, bags, blankets, etc.)

A "top" will be any shirt or blouse worn on the upper half; a "bottom" will be any garment worn on the lower half, and it shouldn't be obscene to wear either without another layer. 

A "dress" will be any garment that covers both upper and lower halves, and again, it shouldn't be obscene to wear it without an additional layer.

An "outer layer" will any jacket or sweater that is intended to be a second layer, over a top or a dress. If it can also be worn alone, that is fine.

A "bib" garment will considered a bottom, unless it can be worn alone without a top under or over it.

One garment may be previously sewn; another may be purchased.  

If you have an item you're working on now, you may include it, OR you may stitch up one item from scratch before the official sewing date of December 26.   

"Sewing" is a blanket term; you may sew, knit, crochet, weave...whatever works.  If you can make 11 garments with a 3D printer, that's fine.

Sewing will begin December 26th, and all garments must be finished by April 30th, 2015.  Muslins, pattern fitting and cutting may be started whenever you are ready. 

Thankfully amongst all the discussion here it soon became clear that I would be comfortable with the "upcycling" twist using buttons from previously owned/sewn garments or if I can find some silk ties there can be Hong Kong finishes on my seams. 

You have all seen the pieces I needed to sew/knit/purchase from my "Starting from Scratch" wardrobe and there are quite a few more than 11, 

I have chosen the following 11 items adding another pair of trousers as I was short 1 bottom.

I need to take time to review the rules as my navy skirt would qualify under the previously sewn, but I'm not so sure with the navy shirtmaker as I was doing the final handstitching when the rules were announced.

Work has been extremely busy this month and I can't see it getting any better in the near future so I am having plenty of time to think about sewing!

Monday, November 3, 2014

The Shirtmaker Dress Journey

It all started when I saw this outfit on Lori's blog, Girls in the Garden, about 2 years ago.

I used the same slate blue linen as my Navy skirt which I purchased from Tessuti in 2013 and seeing I had already made McCalls 5433 back here  my main patterns adjustments were already done.

Just before I cut this out, Louise, from Seams Like Fun (and I  had the pleasure of attending her class at the ASG Convention last month) posted Shirt Collars Made Easy.  Of course this had me downloading the instructions as I have only completed one other shirt collar and any tips to make it easier I was keen to try.

For this version I was looking for it to be able to be worn alone during Spring and Autumn and even Winter with a light layer (spencer) underneath.

To give me a bit more warmth, I decided to line the body of the shirtmaker dress only as I wanted to roll up the sleeves so using the sleeves from view D I added 1.5cm to each side of the sleeve hem width as well as another 4cm to the length.

This was all cut out and fused (collar, collar stand and front bands) for our sewing weekend back in May.

For some reason I decided to go all out and do flat felled seams on the side seams, the shoulders and the sleeves.

The lining has French seams and this was attached to the body of the dress after the dress length was finalised and before adding the front bands, so I could encase the edges.

The lining was then basted to the neck edge so I could add the collar stand.

Louise's  instructions for the Shirt  Collars Made Easy has the ends of the collar and collar stand on the fold so you end up with a centre back seam and hopefully better points.

Oops not quite matching!
Once I inserted the sleeves, I basted the lining to the seam allowance and then added a Hong Kong finish to this seam as it was too tight to to a flat felled seam.

Now to be able to roll my sleeves up, the sleeve width at my cuff was not desirable.  This time I found this great Threads article on Shape a Sleeve with this Easy Fold-Over Placket that provided the perfect solution.

Threads do suggest you make the vertical fold for the placket about 1/3 of the way from the underarm seam, however this put the fold right on my wrist bone which I didn't like, so my sleeve width was 28.5cm and I put my vertical fold at the half way mark which makes the fold toward the back of my sleeve.

Again the wonderful ladies at All Buttons Great and Small helped me choose the buttons and I again purchased the buttonholes from Mick at Quick Buttonhole Service.

and now for some full length views:

I still might add some darts to the back!

It looks like I can have quite a few different looks with this shirtmaker dress depending on the sleeve length and whether or not I wear a belt and switch around my accessories!

Now to find a triple belt and animal print bag that are in the inspiration picture!

2014 Stash Out: 34.95 m
2014 Stash In: 48.75 m