Fashion Fabric - Black wool
Lining - Charcoal Sun Silky
Cut out my fashion fabric.
Cut out the lining using exactly the same pattern pieces I used for the fashion fabric except I fold back the vent pieces as these are cut off when I do the lining hem.
The fashion fabric is sewn together as per the pattern excluding the waistband/facing.
The lining is sewn together leaving the right hand side open for the zip, opposite to the fashion fabric zip opening (you will see why later).
Now you have two skirts, one in your fashion fabric and one in lining.
Pin the two skirts together at the waist, right sides together.
I then baste this seam together so nothing can move.
I am not a fan of facings on my skirts, so I use cotton twill tape* as my waistband/facing stabiliser. I don’t cut the twill tape to any length, I just have it on my lap and place it under the machine foot and start it off for the final waistband stitching. Whilst sewing you pull the twill tape slightly so there is some tension on the tape sewing it along the 1.5cm/5.8" seam line. This then helps the waist cup to my body.
Turn the lining to the inside of the skirt and I then stitch using my 1/4inch foot and 3.0 stitch length on my Janome MC 3500 on the right side of the skirt along the edge of the waistband.
As I am not level, I have the assistance from my darling husband to level the skirt and then I prepare the hems:
- Press the hem edge, making sure not to press a pin head.
- Open up the hem and trim the excess fabric so that I have a hem width of 3cm/1 1/8".
- I fuse a 4cm/1 1/2" wide (1cm/3/8" wider then the hem width) strip of Textureweft (pinked along the top edge**) along the hem fold line (I do not fuse the strip over any seam allowances) to give the hem some body and this gives you a great base for doing your Herringbone stitch for the hem.
- I also mitre the hem/vent corners on the fashion fabric.
For the skirt lining I cut this to be shorter than the fashion fabric by 2.5cm/1" *** all the way around, disregarding the extra fabric at the vents.
- From the corner of each vent I measure in 6cm/2.4" and put a chalk mark.
- Then using my French Ruler I draw a curve like this from the vent edge to the hem edge.
- Cut away the excess lining fabric and this is how the inside of the skirt looks around the vents.
- Finish off your lining hem as you wish.
|Centre back vent showing mitred corners and Hong Kong finishes|
* I pre-shrink the cotton twill tape.
**I have a bag full of these strips already cut on hand.*** Another thing I like to do is to add lace to the lining hem. So this doesn't show I cut the lining to be shorter than the fashion fabric by the lace width + 2.5cm/1" e.g. my lace for this skirt is 2cm/7/8" so I cut my lining hem shorter by 4.5cm/1 7/8". I do like having a little hidden secret that only gets to be seen if the wind decides to play with my skirt.