Sunday, February 19, 2012

Minoru update

I made a muslin of the Minoru a while ago and wasn't happy with the way the sleeves hung.  This is my first raglan sleeve pattern that I have every worked with, so I really didn't know where to start.

Last weekend some of my sewing buddies and I spent some quality time with Angie Zimmerman at her studio in Ingleburn with all of us working on fitting patterns and the first thing I worked on was the Minoru jacket.

It turns out that I need more length over the shoulder, so we:
  • Drew a line across the sleeve at the shoulder point and another one down the length of the sleeve.
  • Split the sleeve lengthwise from shoulder point to the seam line at the cuff.
  • From the centre line cut the shoulder line across to the seam line 
  • Added 1cm (5/8") to the width at the shoulder line
  • Spread the shoulder line by 2.5cm (1")
  • I also shortened the sleeve length by 5cm (2") 
  • The extra amount at the top of the sleeve from these adjustments, we left some of it to be included in the gathers, but did fold back 1.5cm (5/8") on each edge of the sleeve, you can see it at the top of the photo below.
Here is the the top half of the sleeve pattern, hopefully you can work out what I have done.

Now the adjusted Minoru.

I am much happier now with the way the sleeves hang and the fabric is now cut out and I'm ready to start sewing.


My apologies everyone, I forgot to say that my 6th Garment for the SWAP was the 2nd pair of Jalie Jeans.


Lena Merrin said...

Ah! Here is the promised twisting sleeve picture! :) I am glad you found a solution. It is looking great!

Alison said...

That's looking much better! I think I will be working on this at the next Angie day. I got my zippers BTW.

RhondaBuss said...

The corrections make all the difference. Can't wait to see the finished jacket.

Mary said...

Much improved-this will look marvelous. I must post my finished jacket soon.

velosewer said...

This version sits really well on you Sharon.

Cherrypix said...

Aha....that looks much better! I'm hopefully coming out from under the work pile this week ...and ready for some more work on my Minoru Toile....

Gail said...

Angie is a genious isn't she. Should be a good item in your winter wardrobe.

Carol said...

On looking at the first shot I couldn't see why you were worried, but then I saw the adjusted pattern and I understood! Well done - I think I need one of these.

Anonymous said...

The smile on your face says it all :-) After seeing the "before" and "after" photos, I can see how adding more fabric to the top of the sleeve cap untwists the sleeve. Well done!! Cat1

Anonymous said...

Thanks for showing that raglan sleeve adjustment. I've put aside a raglan t-shirt muslin that I think will be rescued if I do the same thing!

And your post is tipping me over the edge to get that pattern and sew it up!

Thank you!